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Katmandu is a city of temples. In the
old city on every corner and down every street are shrines, stupas,
temples, painted tree stumps, painted concrete stumps, pagodas,
chaityas, and bahals. Every cross street is an occasion for a ring of
sanctuaries of Ganesh, Shiva, Kali, Krishna, Saraswati,
Avalokiteshvara,
Varuna, Vishnu, Narayana, and a selection of many of the other Hindu
divinities as well as a host of Buddhas.
Katmandu is also one
of the most congested and polluted little cities on earth. On my last
trip there, though, there was a three day strike, and many of the shops
were closed and most of the vehicles were parked elsewhere. I wandered
through the streets in the old Thamel section without fear of being
broadsided or trampled or gassed. I stopped where ever and whenever I
chose, to look more carefully than I had ever been able to look before.
I saw things I had never noticed even though I had gone down these same
streets many times. I caught natives staring at me because I stopped
and
they -- used to the many interruptions caused by political and social
conflict -- went on about their activities without a halt.
I milled around the
entrance of one temple, considering whether my presence inside would be
permitted, until finally some friendly devotees indicated I should go
in. The inside was very straightforward. The resident deity, possibly
bronze, was in a center island, draped in flower garlands with flowers
strewn all around, rupee notes and smaller denomination coins strewn
all
around, the air thick with incense, and a peaceful feeling permeating
the environment. If I had to create a temple which would fulfill the
needs of a seeker of god this is what I would come up with.
All else is merely
food for photography.
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